docieranie silnika - skrajnie różne sposoby Opcje

[Wally]

Zawsze wydawało mi się, że silnik powinno docierać się powoli, spokojnie i bez nerwów tak jak wg. tego pana:

For the first 500 miles drive it under 3000rpm, and vary RPM's. Don't hop on the freeway and drive 500 miles with the cruise control on, so you may want to take the long way or the back roads to work. Don't do any hard acceleration, so nothing over 50% throttle. The first 500 miles is the most important 500 miles of the motor's life. During this period all of the major break-in occurs, mostly the seating of the rings. The rings correctly seating adds thousands of miles to the life of the motor and minimizes oil burning/blow by in the future. Also try to minimize prolonged idling (ie. more than 5 minutes).

At 500 miles change the oil. You can use a multigrade oil but not a synthetic. The engine is still breaking in, but the major part is over. You will probably find some metal shavings in the oil filter and on the magnetic drain plug when you drain the oil. For the next 500 miles you can do full throttle runs, but I would keep ring stress minimal by running the least boost possible, 15psi maximum, but the less the better. At 1000 miles you can drive it however you would like.

Change oil at 1500 miles, but don't use a synthetic. You can drive it how you like and run as much boost as you would like.

Change oil at 3000 miles, you can use synthetic now since the motor is fully broken in and everything should be seated correctly.

ale przeglądam sobie pewien topic i co widzę:

A lot of people don't believe in this method for break in. In particular, many racing engines are broken in by using a dyno and full throttle after only a few minutes of idling. Some claim an extended easy going break in actually prevents rings from properly seating, ever, and that a motor broken in this way will not produce power to it's potential due to blowby. I am not claiming to know which is better, only that a lot of motors do just fine with a different method.

As for the correct process for breaking an engine in, bullcrap. Going "easy" on an engine wears the crosshatch off the bores before the rings have a chance to wear properly.

I do it on a dyno, like so:

1st-3rd run: Bring the engine up to operating temp and do three runs using 1/2 throttle to 4k. Be sure to leave the dyno brake off and let the engine slow down on its own. Then let it cool off.

4th-6th run: Bring the engine up to temp and do three runs at 3/4 throttle to 5.5k. Dyno brake off, and let it cool down after the runs.

7th-9th run: Bring the engine up to temp and go WFO to 6.5k for another three runs.

Key points: Use a good quality dino oil and a magnetic drain plug.

After this, dump the oil, and give it another 500 miles of normal driving on dino oil. At that point you can (and should) go to synthetic.

You can also do this on the road if you can find a safe stretch that will let you do a 3rd or 4th gear run to 6.5k rpm without getting arrested. The key issue is to let the engine slow down on its own. Don't pop the clutch in, and don't use the brakes any more than absolutely necessary.

Many people go on about taking it "easy" on an engine for the first 500-1,500 miles. I've found this to be crap. The most important break in period for a rebuild (or new) engine is the first 50-100 miles. During that time, you want to be forcing the rings into the cylinder walls as firmly as possible, so that they can properly wear into the crosshatch before it is worn off. Nothing does that better than acceleration and deceleration (compression braking).

I've broken in dozens of engines using that method, and always had superb compression for the life of the engine.

That break-in proceedure comes from a Porsche mechanic who has built more racing engines than most people see in a lifetime. The theory goes that by exerting as much force on the rings as possible, they seal better due to the surfaces being ground slightly by the crosshatch on the bores before it is worn off. The crosshatch wears off VERY quickly, and if you baby the engine, you don't get as good a seal.

I've seen the results several times, using both the "easy" method, and this one. This one tends to work better and yields a better seal. I've done it personally on several bikes, several Supra engines (2jz and 7m) and a couple domestics.

I think that breaking in a motor hard is the best way, and I have my own reasoning as to why I don't listen to everyone else. If he wants to dog his new motor, then good, if not, good. Personally I would.

When my 350z was new, the second I drove it off the lot I was WOT, and drove it extreamly hard. Dynoed with 700 miles on the car and made better numbers then anyone else. The piston rings sealed perfect.

ktoś urzywa takiej metody docierania silnika?

link do tematu:
http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.p ... did=120622

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[Mori]

Ja na spokojnie przez 500km, potem ostrzej przez następne 500, po 1500-2000 wymiana oleju na syntetyk i ogień.

[PrOsIaQ]

wow... zastanawiajace... ja podobnie jak Mori bym myslal

[Mori]

Powiem inaczej - w manualu mam dokładną instrukcję:

0-500km: maks 3.5-4K rpm, 1/2 throttle, 75% Vmax - nie szybciej.
500-1000km: maks 5K rpm, 3/4 throttle, zbliżać się powoli do Vmax.
1000-1500km: 7K rpm, 3/4 throttle, Vmax ale na krótko.

Potem wymiana i jazda.

[PrOsIaQ]

no to ja bym ostrzej jezdzil... ale bynajmniej nie tak jak pan "dyno" z opisu wally'ego

[hwojtek]

Przynajmniej w Subaru nie ma tego problemu - pisza, ze dociera sie przez EDIT! 2500 (po polsku dwatysiącepięćset) a potem, ze przed 20kkm przebiegu nie ma co liczyc na katalogowe wartosci przyspieszen i Vmax...

[Wally]

i co 45k kilometrów przebiegu zmarnowane? dupa nie silnik..

[hwojtek]

Jużem się poprawił...

[RUfi]

A ja jeżdziłem swoim klekotem tak jak nakazała instrukcjia pierwsze 1000 km powoili i spokojnie tak do 3/4 obrotów , potem od 1000 - 1500 obr stopniowo zwiększałem obroty i przy 1500 wymiana oleju i dałem jej ostro w palnik, od tamtej pory jeżdze raczej spokojnie i przynajmniej raz w tygodniu daję jest ostro po garach . Narazie jest wszystko wporządku a jeszcze w serii ibiza jeżdziła dużo lepiej niż by na to wskazywały dane katalogowe

[Wally]

Jużem się poprawił...

ale te kolejne 20k też nie nastawia mnie doń pozytywnie

[CBS]

Jużem się poprawił...

ale te kolejne 20k też nie nastawia mnie doń pozytywnie

popieram!! Jakas lipa z tym silnikiem!

[hwojtek]

Serio. Tak właśnie jest. Bokser długo się układa.

[RobeQ]

jak ostatnio remontowalem silnik tloki piersienie to po wyjezdzie z warsztau 500km jak tzw stara baba nie przekraczalem 90 i 3krpm pozniej dokrecili glowice wymienili olej i kolejne 2000km jak stara baba ale przestalem juz muskac pedal gazu tylko normalnie naciskalem tak do 1/3 po 1500km do 1/2 od 2500 do 3/4. czasami zdarzalo mi sie glebiej ale generalnie jezdzilem na maxa. teraz okazalo sie ze tloki z hipolu sa gowniane i po dotarciu beda mi tloki wymieniali .

Czy po wymianie samych tlokow trzeba docierac silnik ??? czy tylko przejecac 500km aby sie ulozyly i JAZDAAAAAAAA ???

[Elberoth]

Wally, też czytałem o tej metodzie, tyle że na innym forum. I tez nie wiem co o tym mysleć

[Wally]

mi się podoba

[Piotrekk]

ja od poczatku dawalem w piz.... ale to renowka
obecny stan to 85.000 i jeszcze jezdzi

[mario q.]

A ja podobnie jak coupe! Wczesniej mialem civa ktorym zrobilem 85000 i mialem ja od igly! Od poczatku byla to jazda jak ja to nazywam w "drewniakach"!!! Specjalnie nie zwracalem uwagi na jakiekolwiek docieranie... W kazdym badz razie chodzila jak zegarek i nawet pod koniec posiadania jej przeze mnie nic nie stracila na swoim wigorze! Co najciekawsze przez te 85k km zero oleju! I to robilem takie odcinki np. 2 tys. do wloch i z powrotem w upaly i po prostu nic, stan oleju sie nie zmienial... Dodam jeszcze, ze byl to olej 0W-40 czyli rzadki jak cholera!

[gondoljerzy]

Wózek z salonu ma już silnik wstępnie dotarty w fabryce. Co innego gdy robisz remont i masz stan dosłownie surowy.

[osa]

taaa
po takim docieraniu silnika przez 5kkm to tylko jeździć później nie chce i przez kolejne 5kkm trzeba go odmulać żeby mieć później jakaś radość z jazdy